Marrakech
We were sad to have to gather our belongings and leave Dar Naïma behind. We caught a cab to the train station to arrange our onward travel. There were a couple of potential routes including an overnight train to Tangier and then a another train from there back to Fès that would have even up another half day. We opted for the last direct train to Fès, a 7.5 hour ride that would put us in at 2AM.
I was certain that there would be a left luggage place at the train station. This turned out not to be the case. Nor was there one at the small bus station nearby. There was supposedly one at the larger bus stop that was a long distance away. We opted to see if we could leave the bags at the riad. They were super accommodating and let us park the bags with them.
We then set off to see Bahia Palace. After all the trudging we were very happy to find a cool garden with orange trees providing shade. We spent a couple of hours exploring as many of the 130 rooms as were open.
Close by was El Badi Palace, a sprawling ruin that had been “The Incomparable.†It had been built over 8 years by Ali Ben Youssef, the last Almoravid sultan. It took a later sultan 10 years to strip all things movable or of value.
We hiked back to the Djemaa and to the souks behind. We stopped in the same cafe for a bite, the service was terrible this time with the wait staff hanging around outside talking with their friends. We headed to a place where we had seen a lamp that I liked. It was a ‘good price’ for ‘my sister’ from Istanbul. The lamps Duygu liked were pricier, so we passed on them. We then searched around for some of the hand blown tea glasses we had been drinking from at every establishment. The first place we asked at they were 12dh a piece for medium sized ones. More even than the fancy concept store near Majorelle Garden.
At this point, Duygu got on a serious mission to find the glasses at a good price. We finally stopped at a place right behind some plant vendors just at the edge of the Djemaa. It was a huge store that appeared to be the restaurant supply for all the temporary stalls in the plaza. After passing through a giant turnstile we found a helpful gentleman who had some paper wrapped packages with the cups. Half-a-dozen of the large size we a whopping 10dh. Just the bargain we were looking for.
Our prizes in hand, we headed for the riad to collect our bags. We got to say goodbye to Amir and Zahira. We got to the train station and on the direct train to Fès. We initially sat across from a young lady who Duygu took a disliking to. She was super friendly with a young man who sat down next to her and proceeded to burp repeatedly throughout the part of the trip we were near her. When we had a chance we moved to a pair of seats at the other end of the train.
The train slowly passed back to Casablanca and along the coast to Rabat before heading inland to Meknes and finally Fès. After our adventures in the warren of tiny streets in Marrakech, I thought it prudent to call ahead and have someone meet us and help us navigate to the riad. Despite it being 1AM, the manager was pleasant and amenable to having someone meet us a one of the main gates to Fès El Bali.
Fès
After a taxi ride to the Bab er R’cif we waited for someone from the riad to come help quide us through the winding narrow passageways. It was a bit surreal to be walking by all the shuttered shops in the dead quiet of night. The old medina is Fès is the largest urban area without motorized vehicles in the world. There is only foot traffic and transport of goods on donkey or horse.
We were happy to arrive at Riad Dar Bensouda and have the door open onto an even more fantastic place than Dar Naïma. The riad was based around two courtyards. Entering into the main courtyard illuminated only by candlelight was breathtaking. Our room was on the ground floor. Two enormous wooden doors opened onto a long slender room with ceilings easily over 40 feet high. We had a quick shower and collapsed into bed.
